The Haute Couture Spring Summer 2021 collection by Giambattista Valli is a sublime exaggeration

COURTESY OF PRESS OFFICE IMAXTREE
COURTESY OF PRESS OFFICE IMAXTREE

For Spring Summer 2021 Giambattista Valli did not let the desire to escape remain tacit. Those free and nature-inspired elements, already present in the last Haute Couture collection, are more accentuated for next season than ever. Around the clothes, or rather, to the side – according to the visual setting chosen to present the collection, which is very popular these days, that of the film – you can see through images the lights and colors of Seville, and its Roman and Islamic, Baroque architecture and gothic. Next to the Andalusian capital, in a candid set without shadows, the bodies of Giambattista Valli celebrate high fashion and its virtues. Cascading ruffles on numerous creations, dramatic and noble, close to dresses with flamenco skirts, in the impalpable fabrics that the designer is so fond of.

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Her tulle is inevitable , so majestic and imposing, exaggerated. Black, red, white, proposed in rich layers and cuts, so wide that they seem to levitate, betraying gravity. Dramatic sleeves follow one another, now full of ostrich feathers, also layered.

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It is easy to let yourself be betrayed by this excess of the sublime: the designer’s aim is in fact to invite you to look inside. Introspection and the importance of gestures are the two cornerstones declared by the House itself, which encourages deep reflection. Alongside escapism, therefore, expressed both by the fabric and the numerous ruffles and by the Andalusian landscape in which cultures converge, there is also space for the emotions that reside more deeply.

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The volumes are always preponderant. Not only those of the soufflé dresses, but also those of the hair. Giambattista Valli’s women have hair inspired by sixties hairstyles: the grandiose bonnets are embellished with fabric flowers and bows. Next to them, in the film, as light as taffeta, a dancer who approaches and teases the train of the clothes, vibrates the ostrich feathers on the sleeves, in a very delicate game of movements. Even the bodies now converge: the clothes take up the colors of the buildings filmed, the viewer can let himself be carried away by the landscape of Seville, then by the Couture, passing from one side to the other while maintaining balance.

Daniel Bishopp

Daniel U. Bishopp joined LA MODE in November 2020 to work on the features team covering fashion, culture, food and drink and technology in print and online. Before that, he worked for STYLE ME AFRICA.